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 Post subject: Weber 40 DCOE32 calibration and adjustment tuning
PostPosted: 14 Jul 2012 11:30 
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Joined: 09 Jul 2011 09:23
Posts: 1290
Location: Limhamn
Carb tuning instrument. http://www.carbtune.com Connect the pipes to the Weber and get the perfect balance using the vacum method.

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To fit the Weber 40DCOE32 early version, it needs to bemodified in respect of the adaptors. I used aluminium pipes 8mm, then I had them threaded using M8x1.0 which is what the Weber accepts. A plastic hose to connect the black rubber hose and that's it. It works as planned, I am happy to share this in case somebody has/had the same problem. The last photo shows where I connect the alloy pipes and hoses on each carb.

N.b. Be sure to use the correct size, M8x1.0 and not the common M8x1.25 thread.

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Where to put the alloy pipes on each carb.

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Edit: From the good old days, many many years ago.

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Wille R. 1967 Duetto since 1970 - - - Meno parole, piú Duetto!
http://www.veloce.se
http://www.duettoregister.com
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 Post subject: Re: Weber 40 DCOE32 calibration and adjustment tuning
PostPosted: 31 Jul 2012 11:47 
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Joined: 09 Jul 2011 09:23
Posts: 1290
Location: Limhamn
GZ Technology Västra Klagstorp 0708257941 italienare bakom kyrkan renoverar äldre klassiska bilar.



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Wille R. 1967 Duetto since 1970 - - - Meno parole, piú Duetto!
http://www.veloce.se
http://www.duettoregister.com
http://www.duettoinfo.com
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 Post subject: Re: Weber 40 DCOE32 calibration and adjustment tuning
PostPosted: 07 Mar 2013 17:55 

Joined: 29 Dec 2011 19:48
Posts: 19
This maight be useful too.

Go back to the fundamentals. If any of these fail, fix that problem before proceeding:

1. Is there spark? Pull the center lead from the dizzy (with gloves) and hold it near the block while cranking. You should get a spark - two per revolution. If not, lots of things to diagnose ignition problem.

2. Does the spark get to cylinders? Pull a lead from #1 plug, hold near block while cranking. Test all four cylinders. 1 spark per two revolutions for each cylinder.

3. Is the spark at the right time? Rotate engine to #1 TDC, cams pointing outward at #1 cylinder, dizzy rotor pointing forward (then replace dizzy cover). Turn engine slightly by hand to F on pulley (fixed advance - only 10 crank degrees BTDC or so); loosen dizzy lock nut so it will rotate easily (it moves about 45 degrees), pull lead from #1 plug and place near block; turn ignition on without rotating engine, turn dizzy by hand slightly to open and close points. Adjust till it just opens in the F position and makes a spark. That will give you spark close enough to start engine. Amazing how many engines are 180 degrees out of whack [It will never run like that].

4. Does the carb get fuel? (electric pump or mechanical?) open the access cover on both the webers, remove one of the main jets. For electric pump, run pump a few seconds to see the fuel level. Manual has a spec level for fuel level below the mesuring surface. Suck out some fuel and repeat to see it refill. Check both carbs. Reassemble carbs. Check the fuel filter. The early 105's had a wonderful glass bowl filter with pressure regulator, so you could see any sediment in the fuel. You MUST use a pressure regulator with webers; or us an aftermarket version set at 2.5 to 4 psi NO HIGHER!

5. Are weber chokes closed? Open them (choke off).

6. Will it start? Spray some quick-start (ether, of cold start fluid) in the four throats. Crank. This will run every time for a few seconds at least, unless ignition is wacky.

7. Have you flooded the engine with so much fuel that the plugs will not spark? Pull the ignition wires off, remove the plugs. Inspect the electrodes for wetness. WIth plugs out and throttle closed, crank engine to blow out excess fuel. Dry plugs with compressed air.

8. DISCONNECT THE THROTTLE PUSHROD AT THE CENTER OF THE TWO CARBS. You cannot correctly set the carbs with this connected at all. If you have an aftermarket setup using the FI cable linkage, disconnect it. Proceed with carb adjustments.

Anytime you are having perplexing problems, be sure the fundamentals are secure. These are not high tech engines, and there are only a few things that will keep them from running.

Again: I. Be sure the ignition works, II. be sure the fuel gets where it should be.

If you have not had a fuel filter: GET ONE. Then take the covers (the five screws on the entire carb top) off both carbs remove all the jets, suck out all the fuel. Rinse with lacquer thinner, sucking all that out too, until the carb is nice and clean. They are sensitive to sediment, which seems to show up in crummy fuel too much.


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